| I just did this job myself. Some info: the ground for the knock sensor is at the ecu. It DOES NOT connect to the knock sensor itself, otherwise it would create what's called a ground loop. The "ground" wire you see running to the knock sensor is really just shielding. It doesn't actually connect to the knock sensor itself. I ended up screwing up my solder job. My hot wire and ground were shorting out on each other through a little break in the wire. Double check the wires before and after the knock sensor harness to be certain nothing is shorting. I don't mean to anger the Z gods, but why not just do a relocate? Provided your timing is set, and you use quality 91+ octane gas (ethanol free), you shouldn't be knocking in the first place. That, and if you relocate the knock sensor above cylinder 6 (top left plenum bolt), there will be ample sensitivity. Typically, when the VG engine knocks, it usually starts on cylinder 6 anyway (or so I've read). That, and some grain of salt anecdote here: after hours of googling/TT.net searching, I couldn't find a single instance of someone ruining their engine due to a knock sensor relocate. I've had zero problems myself. Someone chime in if I'm wrong here.
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